“Non-comedogenic,” “oil-free,” and “hypoallergenic” appear on skincare packaging constantly, and none of them is a regulated term. A 2018 systematic review from the Johns Hopkins dermatology department found that the terms ‘fragrance-free’, ‘hypoallergenic’, ‘non-comedogenic’, and ‘oil-free’ are not regulated by any governing body, and that they provide varied clinical utility. The authors also note that the terms can confuse patients and clinicians alike.
Non-comedogenic at least has published testing methods. A 2017 paper in the Journal of Cosmetic Science describes two ways to evaluate comedogenicity: an inexpensive human model developed by Mills and Kligman, and a more costly human clinical trial, which the authors call the gold standard. A label doesn’t tell you which one, if either, was used. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) still recommends products labelled “non-comedogenic” or “won’t clog pores” for acne-prone skin, and says that these products don’t cause breakouts in most people. Most people, not everyone.
Oil-free sits on the same unregulated list, so treat it as a description the brand chose rather than a regulated promise. It says nothing on its own about how heavy a product feels or whether it suits your skin.
Hypoallergenic is meant to suggest a very low chance of an allergic skin reaction. A case report from St John’s Institute of Dermatology in London points out that there are neither industry standards nor legal requirements that a product must meet to make this claim. The patient, a 25-year-old woman with worsening eczema, linked it to two skincare products promoted as hypoallergenic and “preservative free”. Chemical analysis confirmed the presence of methyldibromoglutaronitrile and formaldehyde. The authors thought it unlikely these got in as contaminants, and advise interpreting the term with caution.
Test it on your own skin first
The practical response to all three labels is the same: test a new product before it goes on your face. The AAD’s method is to apply it to a quarter-sized spot, such as the underside of your arm or the bend of your elbow, twice daily for seven to 10 days. For something you’d normally wash off, like a cleanser, leave it on for five minutes or as long as the instructions say. If there’s no redness, itching or swelling after seven to 10 days, go ahead. If there is, wash it off gently and don’t use it again. You can send a general question through this contact form before buying, though a pharmacist is better placed to talk through an unfamiliar ingredient list with you.
The ingredient list tells you more than the front of the box. Under EU cosmetics rules, ingredients are listed in descending order of weight at the time they are added, and anything under 1% may be listed in any order after the rest. The same rules say perfume is listed as “parfum” or “aroma”. If you know fragrance bothers you, the AAD suggests products labelled “fragrance free” and caution with “unscented” or botanical products, which may still contain fragrance-related ingredients. And if an ingredient you know irritates you is on the list at all, the front-of-box label doesn’t override that.
Is all-natural the best type of acne therapy?
The same Johns Hopkins review answers part of the title directly: products labelled as having “natural ingredients” are not necessarily safer or less irritating for people with atopy or a history of allergic contact dermatitis.
On whether natural works better, one older head-to-head trial is useful. In a single-blind, randomised trial of 124 patients by dermatologists at Royal Prince Alfred Hospital in New South Wales, Australia, 5% tea tree oil gel was compared with 5% benzoyl peroxide lotion for mild to moderate acne. Both had a significant effect, reducing inflamed and non-inflamed lesions. Tea tree oil was slower to start working, and patients using it had fewer side effects. So the natural option worked, more slowly, and was gentler for those patients. It didn’t come out as the best.
The NHS suggests treatments such as salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, with a pharmacist’s advice, as a starting point. It says to see a GP if you’ve tried treating acne yourself and it isn’t getting better, or if spots are deep, painful or causing scars.
For background on the site itself, Read about our approach here, or reach out directly with any questions.
This article is general information, not medical advice. If acne is severe, scarring or not improving, speak to a pharmacist, GP or dermatologist.
References
- Boozalis E, Patel S. Clinical utility of marketing terms used for over-the-counter dermatologic products. J Dermatolog Treat. 2018;29(8):841-845. PMID 29671667
- Weiss C, Caswell M. Non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic claim substantiation. J Cosmet Sci. 2017;68(4):253-256. PMID 29616616
- American Academy of Dermatology. 10 skin care habits that can worsen acne. aad.org
- Murphy LA, White IR, Rastogi SC. Is hypoallergenic a credible term? Clin Exp Dermatol. 2004;29(3):325-7. PMID 15115531
- American Academy of Dermatology. How to test skin care products. aad.org
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Article 19. legislation.gov.uk
- Bassett IB, Pannowitz DL, Barnetson RS. A comparative study of tea-tree oil versus benzoylperoxide in the treatment of acne. Med J Aust. 1990;153(8):455-8. PMID 2145499
- NHS. Acne. nhs.uk/conditions/acne